Light switches and plug sockets are the most-touched hardware in any room — and the most overlooked.
Get them wrong and they sit on your walls like an apology. Get them right and the whole space clicks into place.
This guide covers finish, function, layout, and the questions our customers ask most — so you can make decisions with confidence rather than last-minute guesswork.
Finish first — always.
If there's one rule, it's this: choose your finish before you choose your style. Everything else follows.
Plank Hardware switches and sockets come in three finish directions:
Brass.
Warm, rich, and more versatile than people expect. Brass reads differently depending on the scheme — it can feel bold against dark walls or quiet and tonal against creams and whites. Pairs naturally with our wider brass cabinet hardware for a cohesive look across every touchpoint in a room.
Antique Brass.
Softer, more muted, and slightly more forgiving in lived-in or layered interiors. The hand-finished character means each plate is subtly unique — no two are identical. Works particularly well in kitchens and hallways where a warmer, more relaxed finish suits the pace of the space.
Paintable.
The finish for people who want complete control of their palette — or want the plates to disappear entirely. Each paintable plate arrives primed in white, ready for any wall colour. The solid Brass or Antique Brass toggle or dimmer detail adds a considered touch of metal warmth, whatever colour you choose. Available across KEPLER (knurled, textured, characterful) and PARKER (smooth, minimal, quiet).
The goal isn't to match everything exactly — it's cohesion. Brass switches alongside brass cabinet hardware creates a considered, intentional palette. Antique Brass switches next to Brass handles can work too, provided the contrast is deliberate rather than accidental.
Toggle or dimmer?
The honest answer: both, in the right rooms.
Toggle switches are simple, tactile, and satisfying to use. They're the right call anywhere you just need on and off — utility rooms, hallways, cupboards, kids' rooms.
Dimmer switches earn their place wherever lighting mood matters — living rooms, bedrooms, dining rooms. All our dimmer switches are LED-compatible, with both leading-edge and trailing-edge technology for flicker-free control.
One thing that trips people up: you cannot install two dimmer switches on the same circuit. If you want to control one light from two locations — a staircase, a long hallway, a bedroom with switches at both doors — you need a 2-way dimmer at one end and a 2-way toggle at the other.
1-way, 2-way, and intermediate switches — what you actually need to know.
We only sell 2-way switches. That's intentional: a 2-way switch can do everything a 1-way switch can, and more — so there's no reason to limit yourself.
1-way controls one light from one location. Fine for a single switch point, but you can't add a second switch later without rewiring.
2-way controls a light from two separate locations. The classic staircase setup — one switch at the bottom, one at the top. Essential for bedrooms, long corridors, and anywhere you'd otherwise be walking back across the room to switch the lights off.
Intermediate switch — needed when you want to control one light from three or more locations. An intermediate switch sits between two 2-way switches on the circuit. We stock a 1-gang intermediate toggle switch for exactly these setups.
If you're not sure which you need, the question to ask your electrician is simple: how many places do you want to control this light from?
Understanding gangs — and mixed plates.
"Gang" just means the number of switches on one plate. One switch, one gang. Two switches, two gang. Simple enough — but the decisions get more interesting from there.
Mixed plates let you put a dimmer and a toggle on the same plate. Useful in living rooms where one circuit handles a ceiling light and another handles a lamp or feature lighting. You don't need two separate plates on the wall — one mixed plate does the job.
Build Your Own — if the ready-made configurations don't quite match what you need, our custom plate system lets you choose your plate (1–4 gang, or Euro plate), then select your modules — toggle, dimmer, USB-A, USB-C, HDMI, RJ45 — independently. Available in Brass, Antique Brass, and Paintable.
One thing to avoid: overcrowding a single plate with more functions than you need. A 4-gang plate looks intentional in the right context and cluttered in the wrong one.
Sockets — practicality doesn't have to mean ugly.
Most people treat plug sockets as a practical necessity and accept whatever came with the house. They don't have to.
Double sockets are the workhorse — most rooms need at least one, usually more. Available in Brass, Antique Brass, and Paintable across the range.
USB-A/C sockets do what they say: integrated USB-A and super-fast USB-C charging ports alongside a standard 13A socket. The right call for kitchen worktops, bedside tables, and home offices — anywhere you're constantly reaching for a phone cable.
Cooker switches provide a dedicated double-pole connection for high-draw kitchen appliances.
Shaver sockets — the only socket type permitted in a bathroom Zone 2. They provide both UK and European shaver voltages (240V / 115V), and are designed specifically for low-draw devices. Not suitable for phones, laptops, or anything that draws significant current.
Fused spur — a switched connection point for hardwired appliances that don't use a plug. Suitable for washing machines, boilers, dishwashers, and extractor fans. Our 13A fused spur is the right spec for most domestic appliances on a ring circuit.
Should light switches and sockets match your hardware?
You don't need to match everything exactly. But you do need to think about it.
The strongest approach is to pick a finish and run it consistently across all hardware in a space — handles, switches, sockets, hooks, lighting. When the metalwork is the same temperature and tone throughout, the room coheres. When it isn't, something feels slightly off even if you can't immediately name why.
Mixing finishes can work — Brass handles with Antique Brass switches, for example — if the contrast is tonal and intentional rather than accidental. What doesn't work is mixing warm and cool finishes (Brass with Polished Nickel, say) without a clear reason.
Are metal switches better than plastic?
Yes. Not because plastic switches are technically inferior — they work perfectly well — but because in a considered interior they read as an afterthought. Metal switches and sockets are more durable, more tactile, and they actually contribute to the look of a room rather than sitting outside it.
The other argument for metal: it ages well. A brass switch develops character over time in a way that white plastic simply doesn't.
Room by room.
Living rooms.
Dimmer switches almost always earn their place here. Consider a mixed plate if you're running multiple circuits from one position. Brass adds warmth to evening light in a way that plastic simply can't.
Kitchens.
Focus on socket placement as much as finish — you'll use them constantly. Double sockets at worktop height, USB-C for the corner where phones live, a cooker switch if you have a range. Brass and Antique Brass both work well; paintable plates disappear against tiled splashbacks.
Bedrooms.
One dimmer switch at minimum, ideally 2-way so you can control the lights from bed without getting up. A USB-C socket at the bedside is fast becoming standard. Paintable plates keep walls clean; Brass plates add warmth.
Hallways and staircases.
2-way switches are essentially mandatory here. Intermediate switches if the staircase connects to two floors with a landing. Antique Brass works well in period properties; Brass or Paintable for more contemporary schemes.
Bathrooms.
Standard UK wiring regulations prohibit switches and sockets (other than shaver sockets) within bathroom zones. A shaver socket is permitted in Zone 2 — within 60cm of a basin, but outside the basin area — and must be installed by a qualified electrician. For your decorative brass switch: plan for one just outside the bathroom door, where it can be part of the interior scheme rather than an afterthought in the hall.
Common mistakes to avoid.
- Leaving switches and sockets until the end of the project and ending up with whatever's available
- Choosing switch finish without considering the rest of the hardware in the room
- Mixing warm and cool metal finishes without a reason
- Using white plastic switches in an otherwise considered interior
- Installing a dimmer switch on both ends of a 2-way circuit — one dimmer, one toggle
- Forgetting to plan USB charging socket positions in rooms where you use them most
Quick checklist.
- Choose finish first, then style
- Keep metalwork consistent across switches, handles, lighting, and hooks in each room
- Use 2-way switches in any room with two entry points
- Use intermediate switches where three or more control points are needed
- Install dimmers in living rooms and bedrooms; use a dimmer/toggle combination for 2-way dimmable circuits
- Plan USB-C socket positions early — bedside, kitchen worktop, home office
- Don't install standard switches or sockets inside a bathroom
Shop by finish.
- Brass switches and sockets
- Antique Brass switches and sockets
- Paintable switches and sockets
- Dimmer switches
- Toggle switches
- Build Your Own plates and modules
Frequently Asked Questions.
Do I need a 1-way or 2-way switch?
We only stock 2-way switches, because a 2-way switch does everything a 1-way switch does — and gives you the option to add a second switch point later without rewiring. If you only ever want one switch on a circuit, use a 2-way switch wired as a 1-way.
Can I have a dimmer and a toggle on the same plate?
Yes. Our mixed plates let you combine a dimmer module and a toggle module on one plate — useful wherever you're controlling more than one circuit from the same position.
Can I install two dimmer switches on the same circuit?
No. You can only have one dimmer per circuit. For 2-way control of a dimmable light, use a dimmer at one switch position and a 2-way toggle at the other.
What bulbs work with your dimmer switches?
Our dimmers are compatible with most LED bulbs, using both leading-edge and trailing-edge technology for flicker-free control. Check your bulb packaging confirms it's dimmable — not all LEDs are.
Can your switches be used in a bathroom?
Not inside the bathroom. Standard UK wiring regulations prohibit switches and sockets (other than shaver sockets) within bathroom zones. A decorative brass switch outside the bathroom door is where we come in.
What finish should light switches be?
Whichever finish you're running elsewhere in the room. The aim is a consistent metal temperature across all hardware — handles, hooks, switches, and lighting. Brass and Antique Brass are the most versatile choices in our range. Don't be afraid to mix tonal finishes intentionally — Brass handles with Antique Brass switches, for example — but avoid mixing warm and cool metals without a clear reason.
Should sockets match door handles?
They don't need to match exactly, but they should sit within the same finish palette. A considered space has a consistent metal temperature throughout — same warmth, same tone, even if the exact finish varies slightly.
Are dimmer switches worth it?
Yes, particularly in living rooms and bedrooms where adjustable lighting changes how a room feels at different times of day. Once you've lived with dimmers, white-plastic on-off switches feel like a downgrade.
Can you mix light switch finishes in a home?
Yes — but intentionally. Tonal pairings (Brass and Antique Brass) work well. Mixing warm and cool metals without a clear reason tends to look inconsistent rather than considered.
What is a 2-gang light switch?
A plate with two switch positions, controlling two separate lighting circuits. A 3-gang controls three, and so on.
What is a shaver socket?
A socket specifically designed for bathrooms. It provides both UK and European shaver voltages (240V / 115V) and is the only socket type permitted inside a bathroom. Designed for low-draw devices only — not suitable for phones, tablets, or other high-draw electronics.
Choosing light switches and sockets: the short version.
Finish, function, layout — get those three things right and your switches and sockets become part of a considered space rather than evidence that you ran out of steam at the end of a project.
Start with finish, work outward from there, and don't treat them as a separate decision from the rest of your hardware.
Plank Hardware supplies decorative light switches and sockets in Brass, Antique Brass, and Paintable finishes — designed to sit within your walls, not on top of them.
Antique Brass switches and sockets
